Surfing from the Lanai

As the sun was going down there were still people surfing.

We have been enjoying our lanai and watching the surfer’s for several days now.  This morning, I woke up with the sun slowly revealing itself to the shoreline. I looked at the rolling ocean in the early dawn and saw several surfers riding the waves. You could hear one shout out in joy as he rode the wave to the shore. Last night, as the sun was setting the surfers were doing exactly the same thing.

Yesterday, as we were walking the grounds, the surfers were in a small group enjoying a lunch break together. They were a diverse group of women and men having a great time sharing stories of their adventures. The delicate smell of grilled fish drifted in my direction. All of these people were tanned and looked like they could compete in the local body builder contest.

Can you imagine finding some activity that you enjoy so much that you want to do it from dawn to dusk? This activity would keep you physically fit and engaged socially. I also presume that it requires some mental skills. A surfer calculates the exact moment to stand on his board. A surfer would also have to calculate the time and distance of each incoming wave.

I’m not suggesting that everyone take up surfing. However, would it not be wonderful to find something in our life that would give us that same amount of passion and enjoyment that those surfers had?

So often, we go through life on a rigid schedule: Get up, be to work by 8:00 am. Home by 6:00 pm. Clean the house every Saturday morning. Sunday after doing the yard work, we take a short nap and start the routine all over again. 

I believe we all have an activity or hobby that we wish we had more time for.  It could be anything from playing a musical instrument, rock climbing, running or oil painting. What would happen if we did it with the same zeal as those surfers? 

Having passion and dedication like those surfers would allow you to excel well beyond your expectations in all areas of your life. It would increase your confidence to tackle everything that comes your way.   The fun, the mundane and the scary tasks would all be completed without difficulty.

Go and find that one thing that gives you joy and passion.


The waves crash into the wall out front of our condo.




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